Fibers are ubiquitous in our daily lives, from clothing to home furnishings to the high-tech industry, where they are used more and more widely.
In 2023, the field of bio-based fibers has emerged with a range of innovative materials that not only outperform traditional fibers in terms of performance, but also excel in terms of sustainability and environmental friendliness. In this article, we will take stock of these new bio-based fiber materials and explore their new developments in the fiber industry.
1. China's first new bio-based spandex product
After five years of research and development, China's first new bio-based spandex product "Omina" was officially launched. This product is jointly developed by Prof. Guo Kai's team from Nanjing University of Technology, Lianyungang Duzhong Xin Aoshen Spandex Co., Ltd. and Sumida Textile International Group, and it has become the only bio-based spandex fiber in the world whose bio-carbon content reaches the three-star standard of the European Union.
In contrast to the traditional polytetrahydrofuran bio-based spandex route, Omina uses a completely new way of thinking about bio-based raw materials and spandex preparation. Through molecular structure design and polymerization process modification, 70% of the composition of this spandex fiber comes from bio-based raw materials. The carbon footprint is reduced by up to 44% compared to equivalent products, while maintaining the same performance parameters as traditional Lycra fibers.
2. Multi-functional underwear developed with seaweed fiber
Aiming to transform the scientific research results into actual products, Amore shares cooperated with the seaweed fiber research and development team of Qingdao University and jointly established Qingdao Yuanhai New Material Science and Technology Co. This strong combination will use seaweed fiber as raw material to develop an international high-end marine underwear with natural antibacterial, anti-mite, comfortable, healthy, environmentally friendly and other functions in one.
Seaweed fiber is a kind of marine bio-based fiber obtained by refining and extracting the abundant brown algae in the ocean as raw material. This kind of fiber is not only environmentally friendly and non-toxic, but also has the characteristics of flame retardant, biodegradable, biocompatible and rich source of raw materials. Through the cooperation with Qingdao University, Amore will further develop the advantages of seaweed fiber and bring consumers healthier and more comfortable underwear products.
3. Plant-based nylon high performance fabrics
Polartec, a leading Milliken & Company brand, has always been committed to creating more sustainable textile solutions. Recently, the company announced that it has upgraded two of its legacy product platforms with the introduction of a new performance fabric made from plant-based nylon. The fabric, called The Best, is designed to set a new standard in textile sustainability.
The performance fabrics are called Polartec Power Shield and Power Stretch Pro, and they both contain Biolon fiber and film, a renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon with a carbon footprint 50% lower than pure nylon 6,6. The performance of this innovative material is very close to that of nylon 6,6 and far exceeds many of the recycled nylon alternatives currently on the market.
It is worth noting that the Polartec Power Shield film contains 48% Biolon plant-based nylon, which reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 50% compared to traditional fossil-fueled nylon. This fabric has a waterproof rating of up to 20,000 mm (ISO 811 standard) and a breathability rating of 20,000 g/m2/24 hours (JIS L1099, B1 standard).
4. Bio-based nylon, high tenacity nylon and anti-static nylon
Ascend Performance Materials, an award-winning provider of textile technologies, recently announced that it is further expanding its anti-odor product line. This expansion will include new materials such as bio-based nylon, high tenacity nylon, and anti-static nylon to meet growing market demand.
A brand of Ascend Performance Materials, Acteev has long been recognized in the industry for its outstanding odor resistance. Today, the company is applying its success in more areas, successfully incorporating high tenacity, anti-static and botanical options into its odor control and medical products.
Acteev BIOSERVE is a plant-based nylon from the brand designed to help the brand meet its sustainability goals without sacrificing performance. This nylon uses sustainable raw materials from agriculture, such as soybean oil or forestry waste, to provide a bio-based material with a mass balance and measurable 14C content.
With consumers increasingly concerned about environmental protection and sustainability, these new anti-odor products from Ascend Performance Materials will undoubtedly lead the way for the future of the textile industry. By utilizing these new materials, brands can better meet consumer demands for environmental protection and health, while maintaining product performance and quality.
5. Using revolutionary bio-based textiles to flip new polo shirts
During the highly anticipated BOSS Open Tennis Tournament in Stuttgart, HeiQ launched a new polo shirt in collaboration with BOSS. The polo shirt features a revolutionary bio-based textile, HeiQ AeoniQ, a cellulose yarn made from certified wood pulp.
HeiQ AeoniQ offers excellent tensile strength, elasticity and abrasion resistance comparable to traditional materials such as polyester and nylon. This new textile offers a range of excellent functional properties, including high breathability, biodegradability and natural odor control properties. At the same time, this material helps reduce environmental pollution and exhibits a significantly better environmental footprint.
The launch of the BOSS x HeiQ aeon IQ polo shirt, made from 87% HeiQ AeoniQ, is the perfect combination of fashion and sustainability. The polo shirt not only demonstrates the BOSS brand's commitment to the environment, but also brings new sustainable options to the textile industry.
6. Plant-based PEF sustainable clothing line
PANGAIA, an apparel company specializing in materials science, recently announced that it will be partnering with Avantium, a leading technology provider in renewable chemistry. Under this partnership, PANGAIA will purchase Avantium's plant-based recyclable material, PEF (polyethylene glycol furanoate), for use in their apparel line. The goal of this partnership is to create recyclable materials and products that are fossil fuel free.
PEF is made from FDCA (furandicarboxylic acid), a 100% plant-based polymer. This material has a wide range of applications such as bottles and packaging, films and textiles. It is worth noting that PEF fibers can replace PET fibers, which in 2021 account for about 54% (60.5 million tons) of global fiber production.
PEF-based fibers have a significantly lower carbon footprint than fossil fuel-based synthetic fibers and can also be recycled from existing assets. This means that PEF is not only a renewable alternative to PET fibers, but also contributes to reducing carbon emissions and promoting sustainable development.
7. The first biodegradable "sequin" fashion
British designer brand Stella McCartney recently launched a striking new product that uses an innovative plant-based cellulose material called BioSequins.
BioSequins is a non-toxic biodegradable material that is made from plant cellulose. This material is environmentally friendly as no metals, minerals, synthetic pigments or colorants are used in its production.
This new fashion uses BioSequins material to create sparkling sequins which add a unique visual effect to the fashion. And, because the material is biodegradable, the fashion is not only stylish, but also very eco-friendly.
8. New series with brewed protein fiber
Japanese biotech company Spiber and sportswear maker Goldwin have announced a partnership to launch a fall/winter 2023 collection for five brands, including the north face, Goldwin, nanamica, The North Face Purple Label and woolrich. the brands will use Spiber's Brewed Protein material developed by Spiber to create the garments.
This brewed protein material is a fiber, film and other types of materials manufactured through fermentation (brewing) of plant-based ingredients. Its main raw material is renewable biomass, such as sugars from sugar cane and corn, which are used as nutrients for microorganisms. The novel material was created using Spiber's proprietary technology platform that enables custom design and molecular engineering of nature-inspired protein polymers.
This brewed protein material can replace a variety of animal-based, plant-based and synthetic materials traditionally used in the apparel industry, providing a sustainable alternative for textile applications. The introduction of this new material will help drive the textile industry in a more environmentally friendly and sustainable direction.
9. Arkema's bio-based nylon PA11
Arkema has succeeded in reducing the carbon footprint of its bio-based Rilsan PA11 grade by 46 percent to less than 2 kg CO2 equivalent/kg through the use of renewable and low-carbon energy sources, as well as the implementation of a number of energy-efficiency improvements at its manufacturing sites. This significant reduction is based on the ISO 14040, ISO 14044 and ISO 14067 standards, which reduce the carbon footprint by approximately 70% compared to conventional nylon using petroleum-based feedstocks and conventional energy sources.
Derived entirely from renewable castor seed, Rilsan PA11 is a 100% bio-based nylon material. During the manufacturing process, the production of the amino 11 monomer and downstream polymers utilizes a wide range of low carbon and renewable energy sources, including electricity and combustible fuels. Rilsan PA11's unique "11 carbon chain" structure gives it exceptional crystallinity, and its high hydrogen bond density gives it a performance advantage over conventional PA12 nylon. This bio-based nylon offers improved melting point, fuel and gas permeability, and impact performance. Compared to conventional short-chain polyamides, PA11 is typically softer, has better dimensional stability and better impact properties.
10. First T-shirt with plant-based nylon
Lululemon recently introduced its first T-shirt made from renewably sourced, plant-based nylon. A longtime partner with sustainable materials leader Genomatica, the new material used in this performance T-shirt has a similar tactile feel to Lululemon's traditional lightweight, quick-drying materials. The innovation is part of Lululemon's Be Planet goal to pave the way for 100 percent sustainable materials in its product line by 2030.
Genomatica's proprietary technology converts renewable carbon (sugar made from plants) into a precursor for nylon, resulting in 100% renewable carbon-based nylon-6. This is achieved through a series of steps: starting with plant sugars, which are fermented to produce plant-based nylon intermediates, which are further converted to plant-based nylon, and ultimately creating plant-based nylon fibers. These fibers are then used in the manufacture of products using plant-based nylon pellets and yarns.
11.100% Biodegradable Fashion Leather Alternative
Lenzing has partnered with NFW to use fibers from the TENCEL™ brand as a support material for NFW's proprietary plant-based technology, MIRUM®. This collaboration aims to provide the fashion industry with a sustainable alternative to leather.
NFW's unique technology incorporates a variety of natural ingredients such as bio-based charcoal, clay, cork powder, rice hulls, coconut fiber, recycled denim, or seaweed to develop a variety of colors or to add visual interest. And TENCEL™ fiber is compostable and biodegradable, meaning that products made with this fiber can be recycled into new MIRUM® or milled and returned to the earth at the end of their life cycle.
This collaboration creates a unique sustainable alternative for leather applications.TENCEL™ fibers and MIRUM® are versatile and can be used in a wide range of applications. By adding a backing material made from TENCEL™ fibers to MIRUM®, not only is it possible to create a truly sustainable alternative, but it also improves the comfort of the leather alternative product.
